Denim and Chinos at Brooklyn Tailors: Breaking it all Down

When we opened our larger flagship store back in late 2016, we began offering a much larger selection of chinos and denim. If you come to one of our shops, we’re happy to talk your ear off about brands, fabrics, and fits, but we’ve also created this handy guide for those who need a little more information from afar. As always, feel free to email or call with any product or fit questions you might have.

*Note: Model’s actual waist measures 33” but he typically wears a size 31 pant.

BKT30 Chinos by Brooklyn Tailors

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Pictured: Our BKT30 Chino in Washed Tobacco

We designed our BKT30 chinos to have a slim cut and a tapered ankle, similar to our BTK50 suit trouser. Since they are pre-washed they have a softer feel and more relaxed look, and they sit close to the body through the hip and thighs without sacrificing comfort. These have a medium rise, measuring 10 inches. Pant length is 30 inches for this size but is easily hemmed by our in-house tailor or your favorite hometown tailor or let out up to 1 inch.

Please note all BKT30 chinos are the same cut, just in different fabric choices.  We stock a variety of colors, weights, and textures.

Model is wearing a size 03.

Tailored Trousers by Brooklyn Tailors - Japan

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Pictured: This trouser from our Japanese line is in a highly durable wool/nylon cloth in classic navy.

We've developed this trouser model specifically for our Japanese collection. They have a more relaxed, slouchy silhouette in comparison to our main line BKT50 trouser or BKT30 chino. They have a single-pleated front, making them significantly roomier through the hips, but they slim down nicely to a tapered leg. They have an elastic waistband in the back but an extended tab waistband in the front, making them both professional looking and exceedingly comfortable. This fit is all the rage in Japan and slowly making its way west. Because these are made for the Japanese market, the inseam is a shorter, 27.5 inches, but these have 2.25 inches of extra fabric to easily lengthen (or shorten) them. The rise on these are about a half an inch bigger than our Brooklyn Tailors BKT30 chino. The lightweight wool and nylon Cordura fabric is ultra-durable (it was designed for cyclists – and yes, you can cycle in these) and great for travel because they are wrinkle-resistant.

Model is wearing a size medium.

GD111 Slim / Straight Jeans by Glenn's Denim

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Pictured:  Glenn's GD211 jeans in raw selvedge denim

Glenn’s Denim is a brand-new collaboration between our founders (Daniel and Brenna Lewis) and Glenn Liburd, a denim expert who has been working in denim pattern making, production, and custom denim for nearly 30 years. The GD111 is the first model of Glenn’s Denim we've introduced at Brooklyn Tailors (more coming soon). The fit is slim through the seat, with a slim and straight leg.   The inseam is a generous 36” with plenty of room for taller guys or cuffing. They can be shortened by our in-house tailor. These have a medium/low 9.5-inch rise. All Glenn’s Denim products are made in NYC using made in the USA fabric, so you can feel good about supporting your local small business people. This fabric is unwashed selvedge denim, so expect them to shrink upon wash (if you choose to do so) and break in beautifully over time.

Model is wearing a size 31.

107 Ivy Fit Jeans from Orslow

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Pictured:  107 Ivy Fit Jeans in "One Wash" Indigo Selvedge Denim

Orslow is a great little Japanese company geeking out over the wonderful world of selvedge denim and enzyme washes. You’ll find this brand all over Tokyo and Osaka, but it’s less well known in America, although it’s gaining traction amongst denim heads. Compared to the GD111 jeans from Glenn's, described above, The Orslow 107 Ivy Fit is slightly less snug in the seat, with a slightly higher 10-inch rise and a more pronounced taper towards the ankle. Whereas the Glenn’s Denim pair were unwashed American selvedge made for breaking in yourself, these are lightly-washed Japanese selvedge making them softer and more relaxed from the get-go. These have a 31-inch inseam.

Model is wearing a size 2.

105 Standard Fit Jeans from Orslow

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Pictured: ORSLOW- 105 Standard Selvedge Denim 2 Year Wash Jean in Indigo

The biggest difference between the Oslow 107 and the 105 is the rise. The 107 has a 10-inch mid-rise, while the 105 has a higher 11.5-inch rise sitting just above the hip. Also, the leg of the 105 is a bit fuller overall, with a straighter, less tapered leg, compared to the 107. The 2 Year Wash (a hand-done enzyme wash) of these jeans makes for a handsome light indigo color and ultra-soft hand feel. These have a 30-inch inseam.

Model is wearing a size 2.

"Archives" Pant from Etudes

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Pictured: Etudes 'Archives' Pant in Navy

The fit of the Etudes Archive Pant lands somewhere between the Brooklyn Tailors Japan Cordura trouser and the Brooklyn Tailors BKT30 chino. And, being made from denim fabric, but with detailing that is closer to a chino, they can truly be regarded as a hybrid style, somewhere in-between jeans and chinos.  They have a 9.5-inch rise and a subtle double pleat in the front, making them roomier (but not billowy) through the hips and thighs, but they slim down to a taper in the calf. They have a 29.25-inch inseam with an additional inch and a half of fabric underneath in case they need to be let out. These pants have an easy, relaxed vibe that is perfect for summer and the washed denim makes them super soft and comfortable. 

Model is wearing a size 46.

June 30, 2018 by Daniel Lewis
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