Known as one of England’s most beloved and respected footwear brands, Joseph Cheaney & Sons has been making traditional English shoes in North Hamptonshire, England since 1886. To this day the entire manufacturing process is carried out in the very same workroom where the company began, and their techniques and materials haven’t changed much either.
To put it simply, Joseph Cheaney is our very favorite shoemaker in the world. After many years of trying out and selling other esteemed brands, we've narrowed our selection down to Joseph Cheaney.
We love Cheaney so much because their shoes are extremely durable, beautifully designed, and while not cheap, we feel they are an incredible value compared to some of their peers.
They are sturdily built with a Goodyear welt, will put up with a lot of wear and tear, and can be re-soled almost indefinitely. Aside from that, they are beautifully designed, with a mix of traditional and more modern styles for formal and more casual occasions. They are also a great value, especially considering the man-hours spent to perfect each pair, and the fact that they will last you a very long time. Members of our team have had pairs for 5+ years wearing them several times per week and they still look like new.l
How They Are Made
There are over 200 separate steps in the making of a single pair of Cheaney shoes, a process which takes 8 weeks to complete. The labor-intensive production process starts in the pattern room. First, the ‘last’ (the distinct shape of the foot/style) of the shoe is chosen. Afterwards, calfskins (leather) are sourced from Europe’s tanneries and are delivered to the clicking room. There, the leather is meticulously cut into pieces for each individual shoe before they are delivered to the closing room. In the closing room, craftsmen assemble the parts to create the uppers such as the vamp, the back, the tongue, lining and add all the other important details that give English shoes their familiar character: gimping, side stitching, brogueing, and royal punching.
Before the final stage of lasting, a Goodyear welt is prepared. A Goodyear welt is a strip of leather that runs along the perimeter of the shoe’s outsole -- this tactic of tacking and pulling the welt onto the last before a period of two to three weeks of rest is the hallmark of English-made shoes. Once rested, cork fills the cavity that the material rib and upper creates, which adds further comfort and waterproofing. The soles are then attached, trimmed and sewn through to the welt. The shoe is then completed in the finishing room, where the last details are added by hand such as the trimming, burnishing and polishing, and lacing.
We respect the care that goes into every pair of Cheaney shoes and the skills in which each craftsman has dedicated to learning, fine-tuning, and teaching; ultimately extending and keeping alive the traditions in handmade shoemaking.
Chiswick Derby Shoes in Dark Leaf Calf Leather
The Chiswick dresses up or down effortlessly, making it a great versatile shoe for everyday occassions and semi-formal situations. It looks as great with a pair of blue jeans as it does a tailored suit.
HOW TO WEAR IT: Try pairing it with Orslow's 107 Ivy Fit Jeans in Indigo, along with a Brooklyn Tailors casual shirt for a sharp, casual look. Or, pair them with our BKT50 Tailored Suit in Bright Navy for a tailored look that's not excessively formal.
Jackie III Chukka Boots in Pony Suede
This suede chukka boot is another versatile option that can be worn casually just as well as it can be worn with a suit.
HOW TO WEAR IT: These pair pair perfectly with a Brooklyn Tailors BKT35 casual suit in various blue, brown or earth tones. Or, try it with a pair of BKT30 cotton chinos.
Lime Classic Oxford in Black Calf Leather If you only have one pair of dress shoes in your closest, this should be it. The Lime is as classic as they come, with a simple top-stitched cap toe, timeless yet modern styling, and the beautifully discreet detailing that Cheaney excels at. HOW TO WEAR IT: This black dress shoe pairs perfectly with our BKT50 tailored suit in charcoal, dove gray, or black.